We visit the Grand Marnier château in France, strolling the vineyards and peeking into the “paradis” to learn the heritage of this fine liqueur

by HOLLY CRAWFORD

As we walk up the drive, gravel crunching under our feet, the château reveals itself. Here, in the small village of Bourg-Charente near Cognac, France stands the house and heritage of Grand Marnier.

We’re visiting the Château de Bourg-Charente, a 13th Century moated castle that was converted into a grand French château in the 1500s. It’s here that we’ll learn how Cognac and the essence of oranges come together to create Grand Marnier, from master distiller Patrick Leger.

Before we ensconce ourselves in the grandeur of the chateau’s drawing room, it’s time to see firsthand an ingredient that is at the heart of Grand Marnier. Cordon Rouge, the main expression of Grand Marnier—and the bottle most of us know—is comprised of 51 per cent fine French Cognac and 49 per cent exotic bitter orange. Not just any orange makes it into this bottle though. Grand Marnier sources a rare variety of bitter orange from the Caribbean (citrus bigaradia), the same as they have since its inception.

It was Louis-Alexandre Marnier Lapostolle who had the vision to add the flavour of orange to Cognac in the late 1870s. At the time oranges were a rare and exotic luxury item, usually enjoyed only at special occasions. A connoisseur of fine Cognac, he thought the two flavours would marry perfectly. 

“The creation of the bitter orange perfume is the same method we have used since 1880,” said Leger. The recipe for the distilled essence of orange is kept a secret, but the soaring warehouse is filled with sacks of dried peel, perfuming the air with citrus.

Citrus bigaradia oranges are handpicked while still green, and the peels are dried in the sun­—an important step that encourages flavour retention from essential oils found in the skin. The dried peels then make their way to the distillery at Château de Bourg-Charente, where they are macerated in a neutral alcohol. After slow distillation, only the purest essence is retained.

What’s in a name?

And this is where the story of the brand and  bottle we know today begins, and it takes us to the city of lights, Paris.

In 1880, when the liqueur was originally launched, Marnier Lapostolle called it Curacao Marnier. Marnier Lapostolle was friends with an ambitious and successful hotelier, Cesar Ritz, legendary founder of The Ritz Hotel. As the story goes, when Ritz tasted his friend’s new liqueur, he thought the bottle of Curacao Marnier needed a name better suited to the grandness of the drink. “Grand Marnier, a grand name for a grand liqueur.”

Flavour of the belle epoque

By 1892 Grand Marnier had been trademarked with the name, traditional seal, red ribbon and bottle silhouette appearing much as is does today.

In the heady days of Belle Epoque-era Paris (1890-1914), new experiences opened for Parisians. These decadent times included the first shows performed at the Moulin Rouge, and international expositions that attracted visitors from around the world. During these years a Parisian soirée was not complete without a bottle of Grand Marnier, and it was found served in the most prestigious hotels including The Ritz and The Savoy.

This fixed the aura of Grand Marnier as quintessentially French, exuding a heritage of charisma and sophistication.

The Cognac

At the heart and soul of Cognac are the grapes, and you can see that in the vineyards surrounding Bourg-Charente.

At the Pinard Distillery in Angouleme, vines heavy with Ugni Blanc grapes are just a few steps from the front door. It is here that visitors can see a traditional method of distillation in copper stills. It’s also where we meet Bisquit & Dubouché (fellow Campari Group brand) Global Brand Ambassador Vincent Chappe; to have our first sip of the powerful eau-de-vie that will one day be transformed into the golden amber liquid in their bottles.

For those grapes outside to be transformed into Bisquit & Dubouché Cognac, traditional methods are still utilized. Grapes are first distilled in copper pot stills. Unlike other spirits, each batch is double distilled for 24 hours to develop a highly aromatic “heart” in the eau-de-vie that will eventually be Cognac. This powerful, clear liquid will be aged in oak casks, and it is also where Cognac takes on its distinctive colour. 

Cognac is a French AOC (Controlled Designation of Origin), and all grapes must be harvested in the vineyards of the Cognac region. These grapes are divided into crus (growing areas) that have a particular soil type, impacting the characteristics of the final product.

The Cognac used in Grand Marnier comes from five crus: Grande Champagne, Petite Champagne, Borderies, Fins Bois and Bons Bois. After aging, the master blender selects from various crus and vintages to create a complex, well-balanced Cognac prior to the “grand marriage” with bitter orange essence.

The paradis

Back at Château de Bourg-Charente, we find our way down what looks like a medieval-era stone staircase to a cool, dark room. This is the “paradis.” To Cognac lovers, this is just how is sounds: paradise. 

While the aging cellars are actually warehouse-like buildings above ground, the ancient cellar of the château houses the company’s “paradis” where oak casks and demijohns (a large glass container with a wicker cover) house rare and vintage Cognacs, some dating back to the early 1900s.

Here a long, wooden table and chairs sit in the centre of the cellar, surrounded by oak casks heavy with vintage Cognac and arched, stone walls quarried centuries ago. It’s a fitting location to taste some of Grand Marnier’s more exclusive creations, led by the master blender himself. 

While Grand Marnier’s finer expressions should certainly be savoured, a cocktail-mixing session in the château’s sumptuous surrounds showcases the versatility of Cordon Rouge in mixed drinks.

“This is my favourite way to enjoy the Grand Marnier Cordon Rouge, in a Grand Margarita,” Leger said.

Bisquit & Dubouché

Set in a central location in the village of Bourg-Charente, the home of Bisquit & Dubouché is a charming 19th Century château. It’s here we again meet Bisquit & Dubouché Global Brand Ambassador Vincent Chappe to explore the history of the brand and taste the finished product. 

Acquired by Campari Group in 2017, Chappe remained with Bisquit & Dubouché, seeing it through a global relaunch, including the introduction of new contemporary packaging for this French heritage brand.

Bisquit & Dubouché has been making Cognac since 1819, when it was established by Alexandre Biscuit and Adrien Dubouché. It’s a Cognac renowned for its inimitable smoothness and complex flavour, due to a distinctive distillation method. At Bisquit & Dubouché the Cognac isn’t created simply with timing, but relies on smell, mouthfeel and a great deal of experience in extracting flavours to ensure the signature floral and fruit notes it’s known for.

Bisquit & Dubouché produces three cognacs: V.S. (very special, aged at least two years), V.S.O.P. (very superior old pale, aged at least four years), and X.O. (extra old, aged at least 10 years). The designations mark the age of the Cognac only—all three expressions share similarities in their flavour profile. 

In the lounge at the château, Chappe takes us through a tasting, exploring the notes of each expression from the brand. Then a silver tray of highball glasses, a bucket of ice and upmarket ginger ale appears, and Chappe mixes cocktails.

“Cognac is meant to be enjoyed, however you prefer it. Sipping neat is delicious, but this is how I like it best.”

Two storied French brands many of us think we should save for special occasion sipping. But in this case, I think perhaps the French know best, and they think we should make cocktails.